>> [CLOSED] Tacos Cuernavaca | Eat the World Los Angeles

Thursday 7 November 2019

[CLOSED] Tacos Cuernavaca

๐Ÿ‡ฒ๐Ÿ‡ฝ Mร‰XICO (Morelos)

EDITOR'S NOTE: This truck permanently closed on 29 April 2022. An updated version of this article (18 December 2023) is available as part of the Historical section of our Substack page. Check that out here:
If an alien came for the first time to Earth, made their way to Los Angeles, and desired easily accessible good foods at a decent price, it would not be long until they found themselves on the stretch of Whittier Boulevard in East Los Angeles known for its trucks and street vendors. Come in the morning for some, the evening for others. At any time of day, some of the most satisfying foods and experiences are right here in front of the long Commerce Center, spanning a good chunk of a kilometer.

While daylight hours can bring you to decent (and Instagram famous) mariscos towers, multiple birria hawkers, and even Sonoran cookies, night time brings even more informal vendors and trucks, and the graffiti covered Tacos Cuernavaca lonchera. Located at the corner of Eastmont Avenue in front of a heavy equipment rental shop and across the boulevard from most of the other action, it is worth risking life and limb to get to this side.

If you have ever spent time in the wonderful city of Cuernavaca, you have ended up during evening hours in the public spaces that fill up with the city's residents after the sun goes down. An army of people selling toys and balloons for children, indigenous performers, and the smells and smokes from countless food vendors swell the plazas to capacity.

While this truck parked on the north side of Whittier Blvd may not have the tacos acorazados and pozole blanco from the capital city of Morelos, it does have plenty worth stopping for. Not the largest items listed on their menu, the most recognizable from blurry late night photos are the bacon-wrapped shrimp dishes, but come before a night of drinking and enjoy what stands atop the menu: picaditas con cecina ($8, below).

Be aware that this will be made to order by hand, so a bit of a wait will be involved but well worth it when the masterpiece arrives. While maybe a bit hard to handle with a plastic fork and knife, the trouble will be forgotten after a bite or two. Share one of their tables set up along the fence and start tearing away.

The picadita is available with both red and green salsa. The salsa roja is a Cuernavaca specialty, chile de arbol joined by peanuts to create a unique sweetness with its heat. On the most recent visit, this verde was procured and did not disappoint but future visits might return to the roja.

The perfectly griddled slab of cecina is placed on top of everything, the focus of meal. Salsa, crema, and queso all start to combine underneath the beef from the masa's warmth. It is surprising to receive such beauty from the window of truck, it must be some of the best cecina in town.

Once you reward your night with one of these, feel free to move onto an order of bacon-wrapped shrimp tacos, or better yet get them in the supremely messy quesadilla. While the steering wheel of your car may have questions as to where your hands have been, it will not matter in your near-drunken food haze. Or maybe that McDonald's on the next block actually is good for something: soap and running water.


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