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Friday 10 January 2020

Sticky Rice


EDITOR'S NOTE: An updated version of this article (05 January 2024) is available as part of the Historical section of our Substack page. Check that out here:
Back in 2014, after realizing that its small stall in the Grand Central Market was not large enough to hold the aspirations of its kitchen, Sticky Rice was able to take over the adjoining space behind it and serve customers from this much larger arrangement. With the shift, the menu also added a bunch of mainly noodles dishes, but kept with the theme of street foods.

For Grand Central Market, and those in need of quality Thai food downtown during their lunch break, Sticky Rice remains an invaluable option in a great setting. Its noodles and rice dishes are strong and fresh, if not the most perfect renditions in the city. But where the stall truly excels above all else is the beautiful plate of kao man gai ($12, below), the Thai take on Hainanese chicken.

Every component of this dish is done right. The rice is cooked in chicken fat stock and ginger, fatty but never greasy. The steamed chicken is juicy and fresh, almost as if you can taste these birds were happy. The chicken soup served on the side is no afterthought either, full of flavors and those tastes like you have back home [EDITOR'S NOTE: This description was transcribed from our Senior Khao Mun Gai Correspondent, who grew up in Chiang Mai].

What most lovers of Hainanese chicken will agree upon is that a good sauce can make or break the dish. The sauce here, made from fermented soy beans, ginger, and fresh red chili is one of the best ever sampled including many in Thailand. While the plate looks simple, the components each have to have great care taken in their creation, something that Sticky Rice achieves while most restaurants in the city have failed.


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